Staying on more than falling off

2pm and there is surf, not at the training area I was at yesterday but at the main break Cloud 9 so we paddle out to the big surfing area where the big boys (and girls) surf, yesterday there was gentle waves and not many people but out on cloud 9 there are lots of people (who know how to surf) and the waves are much bigger ... especially when viewed from facedown on a surfboard and Dun Dun has put me on a smaller, faster and more controllable board today.

Ok remember what I learnt ... in position on the board, patiently wait for the wave then paddle, paddle, push, foot, foot, stand and I am up and away yeees!
I surf past other surfers in the water and for some reason the theme tune from Hawaii Five O is playing in my head.

Despite the bigger, faster waves and a smaller board (which still tossed me off at every opportunity) I actually spent a good part of the next 2 hours surfing, for those who have not surfed surfing time is split between 4 things:
1/ waiting and watching for the 'right' wave
2/ Surfing the wave
3/ Falling off and climbing onto the board
4/ Paddling back into position (avoiding other surfers)

Now at my 'skill' level I reckon my time was split something like this:
25% waiting 25% surfing 25% falling off 25% paddling
Later when I spoke with some more experienced surfers they put their surfing more like:
25% waiting chatting
50% surfing
20% paddling
5% wipeout (correct term for falling off)

I was glad to hear that even the best of surfers experienced wipeouts, which is the technical surf term for being tossed off your board!

While still struggling to get up quickly and stably on the board I am spending enough time surfing to enjoy my time and even bobbing out in the water, (which is warm and clear) in the sunshine waiting for a wave, while not falling off is very relaxing and it is doing wonders for my shoulder muscles as I paddle back for one more wave.

Enjoying surfing at Cloud Nine Siargao

After several days of working at my technique and surfing as much as the waves/tide/my muscles will allow I am paddling out for my final surf before leaving Siargao Island.

I paddle out around the main surf which is looking good today, join the bobbing crew, nods, smiles and greetings from surfers old and new as I position my board and scan the incoming waves.
Two hours whiz by and I manage more time surfing than paddling or wiping out so I am happy and it is with great reluctance I paddle back into the beach alongside a couple of new surfing friends also on their last surf of the trip. We agree to take a group photo together with our boards on the beach so we find a nice sandy spot under the palm trees plonk our boards into the sand ask a passer by to take the photo as we pose beside the boards ... just as he lines up the shot my board topples over and hits me on the head in one last reminder on who is the boss in this relationship!

I pick it up with a sigh ....... what's that tune I can hear coming from the beach bar? The Beach Boys?

Hope you enjoyed learning to surf with me in Siargao for more travel tales go to: